Self tan in tanning accelerators: what to know about DHA bronzers

80% of tanning accelerators contain self tan, whatever the brand. Most often, it’s DHA. Some people worry about it: old photos of carrot-orange skin are still doing the rounds online. Does an accelerator with bronzers work without the sun? Is the colour natural? Is DHA dangerous? Let’s take a look, starting with the molecule itself.

What is DHA (dihydroxyacetone)?

DHA, or dihydroxyacetone, is a simple sugar. It’s the active ingredient in the vast majority of self-tanning products: lotions, creams, sprays and self-tanning drops. It’s also found, in small amounts, in the tanning accelerators known as ‘bronzers’. It’s often paired with erythrulose, another self-tanning sugar, whose colour develops more slowly and makes the tan more even.

So-called ‘natural’ DHA is made by fermenting plant sugars: it’s the same molecule. What changes from one product to another is the DHA concentration: high in a self-tanning lotion, low in an accelerator.

How does DHA work on the skin?

DHA works through the Maillard reaction: it reacts with the amino acids in the stratum corneum, the outer layer of the epidermis, to form brown pigments called melanoidins, which give the skin a tanned look. The colour appears a few hours after application.

DHA only acts on the dead cells on the surface. So the colour goes with them, as your skin naturally renews itself (desquamation): allow four to six days. That’s also why it’s worth removing dead skin cells with an exfoliating scrub before you start: the colour will be more even.

A few years ago, this colouring gave a carrot-yellow tint, streaks and a distinctive smell. Today, the colour is well controlled and the smell is masked by pleasant fragrances.

Is DHA safe?

Applied to the skin, DHA stays in the stratum corneum: it doesn’t enter the body. It’s authorised in cosmetics in Europe, and the US Food and Drug Administration approves it as a colour additive for the skin. As with any cosmetic, do a patch test on a small area if your skin is reactive, and avoid the eye area and lips.

One thing to remember: DHA gives colour, not protection against UV rays. A tan from self tan won’t protect you from sunburn.

Why put self tan in a tanning accelerator?

The aim isn’t so much to make you tan as to change the colour. With repeated UV exposure, artificial or natural, melanin tends to ‘tire’ and turn greyish instead of a lovely golden brown.

Manufacturers found that adding a little self tan made the resulting tan noticeably more coppery. In other words, it’s thanks to these small doses that your tan will be both dark and natural. Bronzers don’t create the colour, they transform it: they give your tan its depth and its coppery glow.

Does an accelerator with DHA tan you without the sun?

It’s made for your session, and that’s intentional. A ‘pure’ self tan contains much more DHA than an accelerator, which contains very little, even in the most loaded products. Without sun or UV exposure, you’ll get a healthy glow at best. A natural tan comes from your own melanin, stimulated by UV and by the accelerator’s active ingredients, such as tyrosine (see tyrosine and tanning). If you want colour without the sun, it’s our self tan range you need.

Self tan streaks and orange colour: how to avoid them

It all depends on the brand’s expertise. Soleo, Supertan and Australian Gold balance their bronzers perfectly: customers who have stained their clothes are very rare, and the colour never turns orange. A few simple habits are enough:

• exfoliate your skin the day before, to start from a clean surface;
• apply the product evenly, in a thin layer, all over your body;
• wash your hands after applying it: a cleansing wipe does the job at the salon or on the beach;
• wait until the product has absorbed before getting dressed.

How to tell if a product contains self tan

On every product page in our shop, we state whether the product contains bronzers (sometimes called ‘bronzing agents’). Otherwise, here’s a tip: a product with the word ‘bronzer’ in its name is almost always an accelerator with bronzers; a product called ‘accelerator’ is usually bronzer-free. Exceptions are rare, such as Supertan’s Beauty Creation, a ‘natural bronzer’ with no DHA or erythrulose, based on walnut extract.

Sunbed cream with bronzer or without: which to choose?

It all depends on your skin and how tanned you already are. Our rule is simple: bronzer-free for your first sessions and for fair skin, which first needs to produce its own melanin; with bronzers for olive or already well-tanned skin.

• Bronzer-free: Soleo’s Mango Tango or Supertan’s Palm Beach;
• With bronzers: Soleo’s Bronze Satisfaction, Supertan’s Pineapple Mango (DHA and erythrulose) or, for men, Soleo’s Black Jack, a moisturising bronzer with shea butter.

Your budget, your skin and the effects you’re after (anti-ageing, firming…) narrow down the choice further: M@nu gives advice case by case, so drop him a line.

Always follow the session time recommended by your tanning salon to avoid burning.

Frequently asked questions

How long does DHA colour last?

About four to six days: the colour goes with the dead cells of the stratum corneum. In an accelerator, it’s renewed at every session and adds to the tan from your own melanin, which lasts longer.

DHA or erythrulose: what’s the difference?

Both are self-tanning sugars that react with the surface of the skin. DHA colours within a few hours; erythrulose more slowly, which gives a more gradual result. Many bronzers combine the two for a more even colour.

Is an accelerator with bronzers suitable for all skin types?

It mainly suits olive skin and skin that’s already tanned. For fair or sensitive skin, start with a bronzer-free accelerator, then move on to a bronzer once your tan is established.

In short

DHA is the active ingredient in self tan. An accelerator contains only a little: it won’t tan you without UV, but it gives your tan a darker, more natural colour. Well balanced, it doesn’t streak and never turns orange. The whole range is in our tanning accelerators category.